In article <363fab39-854f-416f-805e-6b150d7ff713@k2g2000hse.googlegroups.com>,
MikeC <downpantera101proof@yahoo.com> wrote:
>On Jan 18, 2:07 am, "Dan Coby" <adc...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>> "MikeC" <downpantera101pr...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:b08adde5-9e38-4f98-b4a4-924203f1b596@e23g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
>> > Hi all,
>> > I know very little to nothing about motors. I am looking to get a
>> > motor to help improve my grain mill (I'm a homebrewer).
>
>Sheaves are pulleys, one 1.5" and one 10". I am after constant speed.
>My mill should run at 185 - 200 rpm and not any higher. I do not want
>any big fluctuations in the rpm's.
It sounds like you want a run-of-the-mill induction motor. They
have a "natural" speed (their synchronous speed) and they slow down
a little under load, but not a whole lot, unless they stall of
course. They're also one of the most common kinds of 1-HP-or-less
AC electric motor and they're cheap and reliable.
Your mention of a 1750-RPM motor reinforces this: that's almost
certainly a motor with a natural synchronous speed of 1800 RPM (60 Hz power,
times 60 seconds-per-minute, divided by 2 because of the construction
of the motor) which slows to around 1750 RPM under load.
(The other really common kind of motor in that size is the universal
motor, which can run off AC or DC (hence the name); they slow down more
under load but they have plenty of torque even when stalled (unlike an
induction motor). Universal motors are the kind found in hand drills
and circular saws and such. But a universal motor doesn't have a natural
speed; it just runs as fast as it can.)
>> > Should that mean anything to me? What about AC vs DC? I'd assume I
>> > want an AC motor, but could I wire a DC to plug into the wall?
Induction motors are always AC, since they use the alternating-ness

of the current to set up a rotating magnetic field, which is
what drags the rotor around. Some devices can take either AC or DC,
but in general, don't feed AC to something expecting DC (or vice
versa): you'll burn something out.
You don't need a 3-phase motor. Those are generally for larger
industrial stuff. And you probably don't have 3-phase AC power available
anyway. In the US, your typical wall plug provides 115 V (more or less)
single-phase AC power, 60 Hz (exactly), and can provide at most 15-20 amps.
Don't worry about getting the horsepower exactly right. A more powerful
induction motor will still turn at its natural speed, it'll just have
more force available to mangle your fingers if they get caught in the
belt. An undersized induction motor will stall more easily.
There are a few sub-types of induction motor, having to do with how
they start up: split-phase, capacitor-start, and shaded-pole. I think
you don't want a shaded-pole motor. Either of the other two sorts should
work fine, but a split-phase motor is probably slightly cheaper and
maybe simpler (capacitor-start motors have more starting torque,
but I don't think you'd need that for a mill).
Finally, I recommend you put a circuit breaker in between the motor
and the plug (unless the motor has one built in), since electric
motors can draw a ton of current when they stall, and can quickly
overheat and burn out. You can look on the motor's nameplate to
figure out what amperage the circuit breaker should have. I'd
probably wire it up like this:
wall plug >---- box with switch and circuit breaker >---- motor and mill
(While writing this I found ths web page which will help you
interpret the stuff printed on a motor's nameplate:
http://ecmweb.com/mag/electric_understa ... ion_motor/ )
Another place to ask would be woodworking and metalworking craft groups.
People are always putting new/different motors into their shop tools
and I think the FAQs for those groups will include a lot of the same
kind of questions and concerns you have.
--
Wim Lewis <wiml@hhhh.org>, Seattle, WA, USA. PGP keyID 27F772C1